MB&F LM101 Gabriel Colliard Brings Three Colourful Jungles to Life Through Enamel

What happens when unconventional mechanical watchmaking meets the centuries old art of enamelling? In the case of MB&F, the answer is three miniature worlds filled with colour, character and extraordinary detail. The independent watchmaking brand has teamed up with Swiss artist and master enameller Gabriel Colliard to reinterpret its Legacy Machine 101 (LM101), transforming its distinctive architecture into a canvas for three vibrant jungle scenes.

Limited to just eight pieces each, the three editions explore the traditional art of cloisonné enamel through a distinctly contemporary lens. A pair of scarlet macaws takes flight against a predominantly red landscape, a playful monkey inhabits a blue world, while a crocodile emerges from its lush green surroundings. Inspired by the richly coloured enamel dials of the 1950s, the compositions revisit a traditional decorative art while giving it a fresh visual identity. Rather than relying on a multitude of contrasting colours, each watch is built around one dominant hue, with subtle variations in shade, transparency and texture creating depth and atmosphere.

The collaboration also reflects the philosophy behind MB&F's name, with the letter F standing for Friends. The project began with the brand's desire to support Colliard as an independent artist and give his work a wider platform. Instead of asking him to interpret an existing design, MB&F gave him considerable creative freedom to develop his own compositions. The result is an exchange between two seemingly different disciplines, where traditional craftsmanship meets avant-garde watchmaking.

Three characters, three colourful worlds

The three enamel compositions each tell a different story, with their subjects and dominant colours giving every edition a distinct personality. The Macaw edition in red features a pair of scarlet macaws flying between the jungle and the sea. Reflecting the sociable nature of these birds, the scene evokes communication, expression and connection. Vibrant shades of red and orange bring energy and movement to the composition, with the birds emerging exuberantly from their surroundings.

The Monkey edition in blue takes a more playful approach. Intelligent, mischievous and carefree, the monkey serves as a reflection of human nature and its many imperfections. Surrounded by fruit and luxuriant vegetation, it inhabits a blue landscape beside a lake with gently rippling water. The varying shades of blue create a sense of serenity, while the character of the animal brings a welcome touch of humour. It is also a sentiment that resonates with MB&F's own philosophy of not taking life too seriously.

The Crocodile edition in green presents a more imposing character. Representing strength, power and resilience, the ancient reptile appears with its jaws open at the edge of a swamp, equally at home on land and in water. The predominantly green palette lends the composition an organic, almost dreamlike quality, with the richness of the vegetation contrasting against the animal's formidable presence.

Drawing on Post-Impressionism and vintage Symbolist imagery, Colliard has developed a visual language that is more stylised than Baroque. Each composition is unified by its dominant colour, while numerous subtle variations bring the landscapes to life. The artistic treatment continues on the reverse of the watch, where an enamelled ratchet wheel echoes the colours and jungle motifs of the main artwork.

A canvas unlike any other

Creating an enamel composition on a conventional dial is challenging enough. Doing so around the unconventional architecture of an MB&F Legacy Machine presents an entirely different set of considerations. The LM101 is defined by its three-dimensional construction. Its oversized suspended balance wheel rises prominently above the movement, while sculptural bridges sweep across the surface. The hours and minutes are displayed at two o'clock, with the power reserve indication positioned at six. These elements occupy considerable physical and visual space, leaving the artist with an unusual canvas on which to work.

Accustomed to more open dial surfaces, Colliard had to rethink his approach to composition. Vegetation had to find its place around the bridges, the animals needed to remain recognisable beneath the mechanical structures, and the landscapes had to retain their coherence despite the various openings and interruptions. Rather than treating the movement as an obstacle, the artist incorporated its architecture into the artwork itself.

This creative process also called for several mechanical adaptations. The dial plate, which forms the movement's minute bridge, was modified to accommodate the thickness of the enamel. The sub-dials for the time and power reserve were removed, while their hands were extended to ensure the displays remained functional. The result is an unusual interaction between the mechanical architecture and the freedom of Colliard's artwork.

The art of cloisonné enamel

At the heart of these editions lies cloisonné enamel, one of the most demanding decorative techniques in traditional watchmaking. The process begins with a drawing. Following the contours of the animals, vegetation and surrounding landscape, Colliard carefully bends extremely fine gold wires by hand. These wires form tiny compartments known as cloisons, which give the technique its name. Each compartment is then filled with finely ground enamel mixed with liquid before being fired in a kiln, where the heat transforms the material into a glass-like surface.

The process is repeated several times, with additional layers of enamel applied and fired to gradually build colour, texture and depth. The fine gold outlines remain visible in the finished composition, defining the different elements of the scene.

Colliard works with translucent, semi-opaque and opaque enamels, selecting each according to the visual effect he wishes to achieve. Light interacts differently with each type, while the metal beneath the enamel also influences its final appearance. Working within a predominantly monochromatic palette makes the process even more demanding. Small differences in shade, opacity and transparency become particularly important, as neighbouring tones must be distinct enough to define the animals and vegetation while remaining harmonious within the overall composition.

Unlike conventional paint, enamel has a character of its own. A colour that appears one way before firing can emerge quite differently after exposure to heat. Its final appearance also depends on the thickness of the material and the colours surrounding it. Correcting a shade may require removing the enamel, applying a fresh layer and firing it again, with every intervention carrying the risk of affecting the work already completed.

The first examples therefore involve considerable experimentation. Once Colliard establishes the desired palette and atmosphere, he carefully documents the combinations and references that will guide the remaining watches. Even then, no two pieces can be entirely identical. While all eight watches in each edition share the same composition, subtle differences emerge from the artist's hand and the unpredictable behaviour of the material.

The demands of the technique also dictate the production schedule. Colliard expects to complete approximately one enamel composition per month, meaning the production of all 24 watches is expected to take more than two years. As the artist himself acknowledges, the fire always has the final say.

The Legacy Machine 101

First introduced in 2014, the Legacy Machine 101 is one of MB&F's most recognisable and compact creations. As its name suggests, it focuses on the essentials of mechanical watchmaking: the balance wheel regulating the movement, the display of hours and minutes, and an indication of the energy remaining in the mainspring.

Its movement holds particular significance for the brand, as it was the first to be entirely conceived by MB&F's in-house engineering team. The project was developed in collaboration with award-winning independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, who established the movement's fine finishing specifications and ensured its adherence to traditional watchmaking codes.

For the Gabriel Colliard editions, MB&F has upgraded the manually wound movement. Comprising 222 components, the calibre now offers a power reserve of 60 hours, compared with the 45 hours of earlier LM101 versions. Its 14mm suspended balance wheel oscillates at 18,000 vibrations per hour and is equipped with a Straumann double hairspring.

The movement is housed in a 40mm platinum case, providing a relatively understated frame for the colourful enamel compositions. Turn the watch over and the sapphire crystal caseback reveals the movement, with its sensuously curved plates and bridges inspired by the finest historical pocket watches. Traditional finishing techniques include undulating Geneva waves, hand-polished bevels, gold chatons and countersunk blued screws.

With the LM101 Gabriel Colliard editions, MB&F brings together two disciplines that demand extraordinary patience, precision and skill. The result is more than a meeting of mechanical ingenuity and artistic expression. It is a celebration of the possibilities that emerge when watchmaking makes room for creative freedom, while remaining deeply respectful of traditional craftsmanship.

MB&F Legacy Machine N°1 EVO: Specs, Prices And Our Take

MB&F Chronicles: About A Man Who Started A Watchmaking Revolution - Part 1