"We Definitely Want To Enter The Top 10 Of This World," Says Jonathan Brinbaum On Bvlgari’s Next Chapter
6 min read
From rewriting the rules of ultra-thin watchmaking with the Octo Finissimo to bringing its jewellery heritage back into focus, Bvlgari has plenty to say about its future on his recent trip to India. We caught up with Jonathan Brinbaum, Managing Director of Bvlgari, to discuss watchmaking ambitions, the new Octo Finissimo 37mm and why India is much more than a short-term luxury opportunity.
“You're not the new kid on the block anymore at Watches and Wonders,” I remarked to Jonathan Brinbaum. His response? “Thanks for reminding me that I'm becoming old year after year.” And just like that, we were off! Bvlgari may no longer be the newcomer at Watches and Wonders, but it certainly isn't settling into a comfortable routine. After making its debut in 2025, the 2026 edition was about amplifying its presence. “I would not say it was the year of maturity, but it was more the year of really amplifying it,” Jonathan explains.
The ambition is anything but modest. “We definitely want to enter the top 10 of this world,” he says, adding that Bvlgari is growing faster than any other brand in the market. Watches and Wonders has become its platform to communicate that ambition beyond the traditional watchmaking community. “We felt that now was the time to not only go into the community of watchmakers or watch brands, but really now talking to the world.” And with the launch of the Octo Finissimo 37mm generating considerable conversation, alongside new Serpenti creations, the strategy seems to be working. “This year, we had fun and we had big success,” he says.
From jewellery to serious watchmaking
Bvlgari's journey as a watchmaker is an interesting one. “At that time, we were simply jewellers trying to find calibres that could fit a jewel,” Jonathan says, referring to the brand's beginnings in the 1920s. The 1948 launch of the Serpenti marked another milestone, with Bvlgari creating the cases and bracelets while sourcing movements from established manufacturers.
Then came the Bvlgari Bvlgari in 1975, a design-led watch conceived by Gianni Bvlgari with input from Gérald Genta. The real turning point, however, arrived in 2000, when the Maison committed to becoming a Swiss watchmaker. Twenty-five years later, that commitment has resulted in the Octo Finissimo and its extraordinary collection of ultra-thin movements and world records. Jonathan describes it as an “UFO of the industry”, born from an ambitious challenge: creating an exceptionally thin watch when no suitable calibre existed.
“So we went out and said, okay, nothing exists, so we're going to do it internally.” The result was a decade of development and ten world records. But having established its technical credentials, Bvlgari is now ready to bring its two identities closer together. “Now I want to bring back the two worlds together, because we don't need to prove anything anymore. We don't need to do records for the sake of doing records anymore.” For Jonathan, the next chapter is about combining jewellery and watchmaking more naturally, with versatile designs and mechanical watches that appeal to both men and women.
The 37mm everyone was waiting for
The Octo Finissimo has always had a distinctive personality, but its proportions have also been a talking point among collectors. I mentioned that in India, some enthusiasts had even turned up wearing T-shirts asking Bvlgari to make the Finissimo smaller. Jonathan immediately wanted photographic evidence. “Do you have pictures of that?” Sadly, I didn't!
Nevertheless, he acknowledged the demand for a more universal size. Enter the Octo Finissimo 37mm. The new proportions are accompanied by an entirely new calibre, developed over three years. And Bvlgari hasn't simply reduced the dimensions. It has improved the performance too. “It's 20% smaller calibre, but it's 20% more power reserve, moving to 72 hours,” Jonathan explains.
Achieving this required a complete rethink of the movement, including its micro-rotor architecture and escapement. But the objective was never purely technical. “I didn't want this Finissimo 37 to only be technical. I wanted this watch to be for everyone, much more universal.” It's an interesting shift for a collection once defined by its pursuit of records: making extraordinary watchmaking more wearable and accessible without losing its identity.
Four nominations, one distinctive identity
Bvlgari's four nominations at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) reflect precisely this balance between jewellery and watchmaking. The Serpenti Misteriosi and Tubogas Manchette celebrate its jewellery heritage, while the Octo Finissimo 37mm represents its technical expertise. The Eterna in gem-set form brings its design language into the mix. Jonathan is particularly pleased that the nominations represent the Maison's different strengths. “It's almost like all the aspects of what the brand has to offer has been nominated.” For him, the recognition matters as much as the possibility of winning. It signals that Bvlgari is increasingly being understood for its distinctive contribution to watchmaking.
India: playing the long game
Our conversation naturally turns to India, a market Jonathan sees as particularly relevant to Bvlgari's jewellery heritage. “India has, for more than 3,000 years, a true link with jewellery. While mechanical watchmaking is a more recent passion, I believe interest in Swiss precision and the mechanics behind watches is growing rapidly,” he says.
What stands out is his approach to the market. “I don't take it as what we often can read in the press, which is, okay, India is a short-term commercial opportunity for luxury brands. No, we are approaching India as a long-term growth engine.”
Rather than rushing expansion, Bvlgari intends to build awareness and develop its presence thoughtfully. The brand currently has three directly operated stores and approximately ten operators in India, with a new boutique opening in Bengaluru. “We don't want to rush. We want to do it in the right way. But this expansion will continue.” Initiatives such as the Passing the Lights exhibition also demonstrate how Bvlgari hopes to connect its design vocabulary with Indian culture. Jonathan particularly enjoyed the idea of interpreting thousands of traditional diyas through the form of a Serpenti scale. “Not overtaking it, but just saying, you know, these ideas of these 4,500 lights, these diyas, how can it be maybe perceived or designed as a Serpenti scale?”
Three things to take home
Before we wrap up, I ask Jonathan what he will remember most about his Indian visit. His answer is refreshingly simple: “I saw energy, a level of energy that I'm bringing back. I saw a lot of colours.” And the third? “The smiles on the faces of the people.” He also speaks about generosity, a value he believes is central to Bvlgari and one that has kept him with the company for 11 years. “I would have not stayed in a company that doesn't share some of the values I have. I think Bvlgari has generosity at heart.”
Energy, colours and generosity. A rather lovely takeaway from India, and perhaps a fitting reflection of Bvlgari itself. The brand may have spent the last 25 years proving it can be a serious watchmaker. Now, as Jonathan makes clear, it is ready to show the world what happens when that expertise meets the imagination of a jeweller.
Frequently Asked Questions
The Octo Finissimo 37mm features a redesigned case and an entirely new movement developed over three years. Its calibre is 20% smaller than its predecessor while delivering an improved 72-hour power reserve, making the watch more versatile and wearable.
Bvlgari views India as a long-term growth engine rather than a short-term commercial opportunity. The brand plans to expand thoughtfully through new boutiques, greater awareness and cultural initiatives that connect its jewellery heritage with India's traditions.
Bvlgari is bringing its jewellery heritage and technical watchmaking expertise closer together through versatile designs, mechanical watches for men and women, and creations such as the Serpenti and Octo Finissimo. The aim is to move beyond technical records and create watches that appeal to a broader audience.