A Renaissance of Craft: Favre Leuba Introduces the Chief Tourbillon Guilloché

Following the widespread critical acclaim of last year’s limited-edition Chief Tourbillon, Favre Leuba has unveiled the second chapter in its modern high-horology journey: the Chief Tourbillon Guilloché. Issued in a strictly limited run of just 25 pieces, this new release elevates the refined architecture of the Chief collection by marrying avant-garde mechanical watchmaking with centuries-old artisanal craftsmanship. 

The Art of the Rose Engine 

While the cushion-shaped 41 mm stainless steel case remains familiar, the visual centerpiece of this new iteration is undoubtedly its resplendent blue dial. Moving away from modern machining, Favre Leuba has opted for a traditional grain d'orge, or barleycorn, guilloché pattern that radiates dynamically from the center.  This intricate texture is achieved entirely by hand on a vintage rose engine lathe dating back to the late 19th century. The process demands a minimum of five to six hours of painstaking, zero-margin-for-error work by a master craftsman for every single dial. The result is a striking, three-dimensional light play that shifts with the wearer's wrist. To ensure supreme legibility against this complex backdrop, the brand utilizes polished, rhodium-plated hour indexes and hands filled with Super-LumiNova C1 X1, providing a vibrant blue glow in low-light conditions. 

Chronode’s Mechanical Mastery 

At the heart of the Chief Tourbillon Guilloché is the manual-winding caliber FL T01, developed in collaboration with master movement maker Jean-François Mojon of Chronode. Operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), the 23-jewel movement delivers a robust 60-hour power reserve.  Mojon’s architectural brilliance shines through in the bespoke customization of the caliber, weaving Favre Leuba’s DNA directly into the mechanics. The upper bridge of the 14.85 mm tourbillon cage is sculpted to evoke the brand's signature hourglass emblem, a motif mirrored in a spiral-relief on the laser-engraved caseback. Attention to finishing is absolute; the tourbillon bridge features a horizontal brushing with circular graining on its outer edges, while flame-blued screws pay tribute to the brand's origins dating back to 1737. A flame-blued small seconds hand sits elegantly atop the tourbillon carriage at six o'clock. 

A Modern Vision

 “With this new edition, we elevate the Chief Tourbillon through the artistry of hand-guilloché, giving each dial its own unique character and making every timepiece truly one of a kind,” notes Patrik Hoffmann, CEO of Favre Leuba.  Designed for versatility, the 11.45 mm thick timepiece offers 10 ATM of water resistance and comes equipped with a quick-release integrated steel bracelet featuring brushed 'H'-shaped links. For a more casual aesthetic, an interchangeable blue FKM rubber strap is also included, all presented within a high-grade wooden box containing a watchmaker's loupe and a commemorative medallion. Priced at INR 25,00,000, the Chief Tourbillon Guilloché is a compelling testament to the second-oldest Swiss watch brand's ongoing renaissance: proving that the integration of historic design codes and independent mechanical ingenuity is a winning formula for the modern collector.

The Chief Tourbillon Guilloché represents more than just a simple exercise in high horology: it is a definitive statement of intent from the second-oldest Swiss watchmaking brand. By seamlessly merging the centuries-old artisanal craft of the rose engine lathe with Jean-François Mojon’s modern mechanical architecture, Favre Leuba honours its 1737 origins while boldly accelerating its contemporary renaissance. For the 25 collectors fortunate enough to acquire one, this timepiece offers not just reliable precision, but a tangible piece of watchmaking history meticulously reborn for the modern era. 

Favre Leuba recently launched a Two Tone Deep Raider Day-Date model. 
Following the debut of the Harpoon Revival at Watches and Wonders Geneva earlier this year, Favre Leuba launched two striking new references dressed in deep black and blue.

All Favre Leuba Watches are available in Ethos boutiques 

What is the price of Favre Leuba's Chief Tourbillon Guilloché?
The Chief Tourbillon Guilloché   is priced at INR 25,00,000.

How many peices is Favre Leuba's Chief Tourbillon Guilloché?
The Chief Tourbillon Guilloché is issued in a strict limited run of just 25 pieces. 

What caliber does the Chief Tourbillon Guilloché use?
At the heart of the Chief Tourbillon Guilloché is the manual-winding caliber FL T01.