GPHG 2026: What Caught India's Eye

As the watchmaking world turns its eyes toward Geneva for the grand 26th GPHG Awards Ceremony on November 7, the conversation among collectors is shifting from anticipation to reflection. When the prestigious Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) which is widely hailed as the "Oscars of watchmaking" chose Mumbai as the grand launchpad for its 2026 World Tour in partnership with Ethos Limited, it offered Indian connoisseurs a rare, hands-on encounter with 78 of the finest nominated masterpieces.

Far from being a passive showcase, the exhibition at the St. Regis Mumbai proved to be a vibrant crossroads of horological passions. And of course we didn't let go of the golden opportunity to widen our understanding of what India wants. We asked India’s discerning collectors who attended the exhibition a simple question: Which nominated watch captured your heart, and why?

Their answers reveal a fascinating narrative: one that balances a deep respect for independent watchmaking, an evolving appreciation for ergonomic proportions, and a profound emotional connection to brand heritage.

The exhibition at the St. Regis Mumbai proved to be a vibrant crossroads of horological passions

The Rise of Independent Visionaries and Independent Spirit

Independent watchmaking continues to cast a powerful spell over Indian collectors, who increasingly value raw craftsmanship, exclusivity, and distinct narrative voices over mainstream ubiquity. Parmigiani Fleurier has captured significant attention this year with the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa, prompting one collector to note:

"I have read a great deal about Parmigiani this year. Over the past two years, their watch curation felt somewhat scattered, but coming into this year, they arrived with a clear, deliberate plan. As an independent watchmaker, they stand out, and since I do not own many independent pieces, this was an easy standout."

Another enthusiast drawn to the Tonda PF Chronographe Mysterieux emphasized how the brand excels at creating versatile, understated daily wearers: "Parmigiani is doing something genuinely interesting as a watch company. Whether you look at their time-only models or chronographs, every piece feels wearable anywhere. They are never overly thick or ostentatious, which appeals to my preference for more understated watches."

Avant-garde horology also found a passionate voice among fans of the MB&F Legacy Machine Splendor (LM SPL) Platinum, with a collector simply declaring themselves a "huge admirer of the brand's visionary approach."

Iconic Legacies and Micro-Engineering Marvels

While independents command immense respect, horological icons and master complication-makers also commanded the room, proving that historical depth and ultra-slim engineering remain timelessly magnetic. The enduring dominance of Le Brassus was underscored by many collectors who gravitated toward the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. A collector noted, "AP boasts a fantastic history that I deeply cherish. This piece is exceptionally brilliant: super-slim, yet managing to house such intricate complications within a tiny case. That is watchmaking at its absolute finest."

Experiencing high horology in the metal versus behind a screen proved transformative for an admirer of the Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, who reflected, "Many watches look rather underwhelming in online photos or videos, but experiencing them in person is pure magic. When you examine the craftsmanship and exquisite detailing up close, you cannot help but wonder how something so extraordinary is even possible."

For lovers of celestial complications, emotional resonance was tied straight to the visual poetry of the Christiaan Van Der Klaauw CVDK Venus Annual Calendar, celebrated simply because "it is utterly stunning and beautiful, backed by breathtaking craftsmanship." Grounded in deep historical appreciation, another collector championed the Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton, "Given its rich history as one of our oldest and most revered legacy brands, seeing them make such an incredible comeback launch is remarkable. In today's market, finding a skeleton watch of this caliber and top-tier craftsmanship at this price point is truly unprecedented." Finally, keeping it profoundly personal, a collector cited the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner simply because "it evokes a wonderful sense of childhood nostalgia."

As the GPHG 2026 World Tour settles into Geneva, the responses from Mumbai’s collectors paint a vivid picture of a mature, diverse, and deeply passionate market. Whether it is the artistic triumph of an independent atelier, the boundary-pushing thinness of a grand complication, or the nostalgic pull of a childhood memory, Indian connoisseurs are looking past the digital noise, proving that when it comes to the world's finest timepieces, the magic happens when art meets the wrist.

The first round of voting for the 2026 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) concluded with narrowing an impressive field of 320 timepieces down to 84 nominated watches and clocks. 

For its 26th edition, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève is making its most structurally significant changes in years, and the headline move is one the industry has quietly needed for some time.